May 15, 2013 15:11
Rockcreation. Climbing season has begun.
The pleasure and the pain. Ive been thinking a lot of these two feelings lately since I started my 'climbing season back up. And the beginning of the season always dishes up more pain than pleasure. But between the sore muscles, healing hands and rebuilding confidence, there has been a lot of great vistas, memorable moments and the goal to get stronger.
City of Rocks, Idaho
April 8th, 9th and 10th
Pulling into this place brings back so many great memories of accomplishment through perseverance. This trip the group of four consisted of Aaron Summers, Jason Cazier, the new kid on the rock, Anthony Russo and myself.
Day 1
After a brief stop at the welcome center, we were off to Bath Rock for the one of three available camping spots.
Once we settled in to camp, we broke off into teams. Anthony with me to learn a bit about this new sport and Aaron/Jason off to Private Idaho and Roller coaster on the west side.
After an introduction with Anthony, we were off to summit Bath Rock via the tree route. A fun little ramp, 5.5 route to the summit and the "bath tub" area on top for which the rock is named. After we summitted, we descended the famed "re bar route" to meet up with Aaron and Jason.
Roller coaster or Balls in a Bowl and Private Idaho. Two really fun and popular 5.9's
Anthony giving Roller coaster a go on TR.
Day 2
Tour day of the inner city with our sights set on the well known, 3 pitch sport route, called Cruel Shoes on Stripe Rock.
On our walk in from Bath Rock area, we passed a great assortment of climbing areas: Bubblie Wall, Lost Arrow and many more.
Although it takes a bit of time to get to, Stripe Rock is worth the walk. Cruel Shoes is an impressive array of friction, crimps, patina buckets and a fun lead for any 5.8/5.9 sport route climber, even though it's rated 5.7.
Aaron leading up the first pitch and getting accustomed to the cruel shoes dance.
3.5 hours later, Russo and I topping out on the summit pitch to meet up with Aaron and Jason.
If you go for this route, BRING 70 M ROPES. A successful return for the party was reached after some, on the fly problem solving, once I realized the guidebook is a bit off on the rap distance. Although the book says 160' to the first pitch anchors, it's more like 185'. This miscalculation led to me having to ascend back up the face, in rap mode to the 2nd pitch belay station. A minor oversight by Kevin Pogue in '89.
Pausing to reflect
All in all, it was a fun outing. Anthony seen here all smiles after accomplishing his 1st multi-pitch on day 2.
Day 3
Saturday in the City, not my favorite day to be there, especially on Mother's Day weekend. The sound of birds, silence and climbing calls of the past two days were drowned out by SUV traffic, camper trailers, families, church groups and more families... Every climb we went to had a wait.
After hoping around a bit, we knew we had to break up. Aaron and Russo went after sporty Delay of Game/Scream Cheese and Jason and I went for trad with Intruding Dike and Carol's Crack.
After hoping around a bit, we knew we had to break up. Aaron and Russo went after sporty Delay of Game/Scream Cheese and Jason and I went for trad with Intruding Dike and Carol's Crack.
Getting ready for Intruding Dike's 3 star reputation.
Although we had great aspirations for Saturday, the crowds, sun and past three days were taking it's toll on the group. After walking around to the Anteater and Morning Glory Spire, we quickly realized we'd have to return another time to get on more climbs.
Our group pausing for a shot before rolling out of camp. Joining us, the welcoming camp 39 host and very generous Brian from Canada.
See you next time stoned house.
Little Cottonwood, UTah
April 14th
Once rested and healed from our trip to the City, Aaron and I discussed plans to hit up LCC. After talking a bit over texts, our plan was set - Beckey's Wall, Satan's Corner and Hatchet Crack.
Fred Beckey and Roslyn Stewart pioneered this climb more than 52 years ago! Today it remains as a testament to the quality climbing in Little Cottonwood.
A little bummed Aaron and I didn't get any climbing shots, except this one above and below.
Rapping out.
Reflection.
Staring up at Satan's Corner, racked up and ready to go. Next time!
Next up, Hatchet Crack. After a brief walk through the woods and over the boulder field into Green Adjective Gully, a very prominent fold of crack systems, granite face and chicken heads comes into view.
Game on.
Onward and over the crux buldge.
Aaron making his way past the crux and onto the chicken head flake.
The view from the anchors. This never gets old, well maybe the pollution in the valley, but that's another blog.
Aaron rapping off.
And the scramble begins.
to our pit stop at the creek.
Insert yourself here.
Other related climbing news:
NPS Releases Historic Policy Authorizing Fixed Anchors in Wilderness
After decades of work, the Access Fund received notice yesterday from National Park Service (NPS) that the agency has issued final national policy authorizing fixed anchors in wilderness. This policy—Director's Order #41—affects many of the country's most important climbing areas such as Yosemite, Grand Teton, Zion, Joshua Tree, and Canyonlands National Parks. More...
